Island walking

The Isle of Wight is an ideal location for a car-free walk - its size means many interesting walks are easily reachable, and the remoteness of many locations and the island itself mean many of the island's inhabitants rely on the local bus and train services. The train runs along the eastern side of the island from Ryde to Shanklin, with converted tube carriages meandering along quite frequently. One company, Southern Vectis, runs the majority of the island's buses and they are quite reliable - except when it snows.

Before setting off for a January break on the island, I was told by a family member that 'it never snows on the Isle of Wight'. As we arrived at our cottage at the start of the week, laden with a rucksack each and some emergency shopping, a fellow bus passenger told us about the last time it had snowed on the island - the 1970s. But no one had reckoned with the cold snap that hit the UK over the new year, and the Isle of Wight certainly didn't escape. The good thing about all the snow was that we couldn't have used a car even if we had wanted to, so the walks we had planned were solely reliant on boots, backpacks and the emergency shopping.

Although unexpected, it was good to get some experience of snow walking as it is noticeably different to good weather trips. Progress is a lot slower than the average 3mph when you are walking through knee-deep drifts or negotiating downhill tracks with pockets of ice. So we had to plan accordingly, bearing in mind how early it gets dark, and take extra food and water. And torches. My wind-up bicycle lamp did the trick. The snow also made it harder to find the way, with many signposts coated in thick white and the terrain difficult to relate to the map - roads, tracks and fields all look pretty similar under a blanket of snow. Fortunately some gregarious locals had written signs in the snow - much appreciated.

The Isle of Wight's climate is normally far more agreeable, offering excellent year-round walking, and even in January we noticed the temperate rising in the undercliff of St Lawrence on the southern side of the island, where the variety of plants and wildlife were still evident. A palm tree with its branches laden with snow is a peculiar sight in any part of the world.

It is also a haven for birdwatching and perhaps some residents were feeling the chill beneath their feathers, because plenty were about searching for sustenance. In Niton, we saw flocks of redwings, ravens, black caps and a solitary pied wagtail. On the coast near St Catherine's lighthouse, a buzzard was circling; near the Ryde ferry terminal we spotted avocets and gulls. And there were plenty of more familiar names too - tits, blackbirds and thrushes.

The Isle of Wight is a great learning ground for the novice walker, because of the pleasant temperate climate and the (usually) well-signposted routes. The excellent bus and train network make it ideal for the car-free walker. And the impressive number of pubs, accustomed to catering for people with a friendly welcome and pint of a local brew, make it perfect for all kinds of walker.

By Penny Woods

For more photos, visit Car Free Walk's photo gallery

Falling for the South Downs

The Devil’s Dyke, on a sunny Saturday morning in May, is probably not the best introduction to the South Downs. People sit impatiently in their cars on the approach road, waiting for a free spot in the vast concrete car park. Ice cream vans, motorbikes and squawking children drown out any sounds of nature, although the wildlife undoubtedly knows to leaves early. This was my first experience of the South Downs, and it left me distinctly underwhelmed – was it really set to become our newest National Park?

Ditchling Beacon, the second attempt at some peace in the countryside, was not much better. A smaller car park, but this only seemed to make those queuing to get in more frustrated. Several people who had made it were indulging in that peculiarly British pastime, the in-car picnic. Why sit outside in the sunshine when you can gaze at the view through your windscreen? And all this weekend disturbance could easily be avoided; both of these popular spots are well served by buses from Brighton.

This was not what I was hoping for from my new walking playground. Before reluctantly moving to Brighton, I had spent nine months in Aberfoyle, near Scotland’s Trossachs, with the ever-changing views of Ben Lomond to cherish each morning. This was followed by a year in Lancaster, with its easy access to the Lakes and Yorkshire Dales. A humble line of chalky hills, spluttering to a high point of 280m, offered little potential excitement. There’s no doubt about it; I was pining for these places, and the South Downs were bearing the brunt.

But I am not the type to nurture a grievance after the eighteenth heartfelt rant. Joining the local Duke of Edinburgh’s Award group as a leader meant regular weekends in the Downs, discovering new places and unexpected delights: Beachy Head, with its dramatic, plunging cliffs; the glorious Arun Valley and its varied birdlife; Cuckmere Haven, perfect for (outdoor) picnics, and the nearby Friston Forest. Maybe not household names, but they carry the same importance to local people as the more exalted walking regions to the north.

The South Downs has another advantage over some of these regions; every section of its 100 miles is accessible without a car. The towns and villages that nestle either side of the ridge are almost all well served with buses or trains. This includes locally run, walker-friendly services such as the Cuckmere Community Bus. This multitude of start and finish points, combined with the geography of the Downs, makes it ideal for linear car-free walks; start at one village, up onto the ridge, then down again once you’re done for the day.

After five years of learning to love the South Downs, I found, with no little surprise, that I had a favourite walk here – Southease to Lewes, via Highdole Hill. It doesn’t make my top 20 walks, maybe not even the top 50, but a day of gentle ups and downs in one of the quieter sections of the Downs gets all the right muscles twitching. It is also one of the few places in the southeast of England where you can escape the crowds, stretch your legs, and appreciate the sounds of cows and seagulls instead of mobile phones and traffic. And for that alone, it deserves a little recognition.

Southease to Lewes
Southease Station is the perfect place to begin a car-free walk. No café, no car parks and usually no other passengers alighting, and the footpath starts at the end of the platform. How’s that for accessibility?

A short distance from here, over the old wooden bridge that spans the River Ouse, is the village of Southease, and the walk’s first highlight. St Peter’s Church was built in the early 12th Century, and is a fine example of the architecture of this time. It’s well worth exploring if you are in no rush to reach the hills.

Cross the road just out of Southease and a footpath takes you right into the South Downs Way. There’s no fixed route to follow – head along the secluded Breaky Bottom, or climb up to Highdole Hill for views over Rottingdean and the English Channel. The walk is also dotted with those features that colour a walk; look out for the path-side monument near Whiteway Bottom, in memory of another admirer of these hills. A little further along is the mysterious collection of farm buildings the southern side of Castle Hill Nature Reserve, disused except for the crows and ravens who watch as you pass.

At Castle Hill, head briefly along the South Downs Way towards Kingston near Lewes. The Juggs Inn is a handy place to refresh before the final couple of miles to Lewes. In spring evenings, you may even be treated to a display of Morris dancing in the road next to the beer garden. Mock ye not this splendid tradition; our ancient Isles would be a more cheerless place without these grown men and women who, for our entertainment, hit sticks together and wear bells round their ankles.

A one-way ticket through the Yorkshire Dales

One of the joys of car-free walking is making up your own routes. Rather than sticking to a well-trodden path, or a particular peak, you can select two stations or bus stops – one to start and one to finish – and make up the bit in between. With this cunning plan in mind, I spread out my maps of the Yorkshire Dales and started scanning.

The problem with the Dales, though, is where to start? There are several train stations around the south and western sides, and good bus services through all the major dales, which means the whole park is easily reached without a car. The Three Peaks – Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent – were demanding a second visit, and Wensleydale boasts some of the finest walking in England. Or what about exploring a less familiar valley – Raydale, Wharfedale or Dentdale?

Time for Plan B. A brief check on the Trainline found cheap rail tickets from London to Gargrave, so that was the starting point. And a friend had recently spent a night at Grinton Lodge in Swaledale while cycling the Coast to Coast path; for want of a more noble reason that would be my end target. So, south to north across the best part of the National Park. As for the bit in between? Well, I could make it up.

Gargrave was bright and sunny upon arrival, and after stocking up on supplies (I had eaten my emergency chocolate on the train), a brisk amble along the Pennine Way took me to Malham. No time to visit the famous cove before darkness fell, so instead I made for the Lister Arms, maps at the ready to plan the next day’s route. Unfortunately, three pints of Thwaites’ Nutty Black scuppered any attempts at forward planning and I was soon tucked up in bed – at least I got an early night.

The stars were still out when I left the hostel and headed towards Gordale – with the next night’s bed in far-off Wensleydale, I needed to keep up a steady pace. A herd of cows huddled together in a field, the morning frost clinging to their shaggy brows. They watched me pass in my hat and gloves, envious of these warming garments.

But in my eagerness for an early start, I had forgotten that Yorkshire gets a bit chilly in November. The rocks and boulders that jostle around the foot of Gordale Scar were coated with a thin but treacherous layer of ice, and the stream was bursting down the waterfall – evidence of the recent heavy rains. After two short-lived attempts to scramble up, and two soggy boots from rapid downclimbing, it was time to change plan and head up via New Close Knotts.

Even this was far from simple; the Dales’ distinctive limestone scars are steeper than they look from the valleys. A stone kicked down by a stray left boot bounced down to the valley floor; I took extra care over the final few feet to make sure I didn’t follow it.

If the early bird catches the worm, then the early walker gets the hills to himself. For the three hour hike to Arncliffe, I could enjoy the moors in blissful solitude, the frozen ground crunching beneath my feet. Along with three ascents, six tea breaks, and two slips, my route took me through four different dales – Littondale, Wharfedale, Raydale and Wensleydale. Crossing them in succession is more tiring than exploring one dale in a day, but added fascinating variety as each has its own distinct character. The bustling, tourist-loving Wensleydale contrasted with the hidden and elusive Raydale; Wharfedale was bustling with birds flitting along the river, collecting the last berries of autumn, while the sheep on the moors above Littondale huddled together behind a wall to shelter from the biting November wind.

After a refreshing overnight stay the Rose & Crown in Bainbridge, legs were fully restored from the 22 miles of the previous day and I set off at the more reasonable hour of 9.00am. The final day’s route headed across the grouse moors that rise up above Wensleydale, and head into Grinton in Swaledale. Grouse – and the associated shooting industry –dominate this part of Yorkshire. Grouse butts run in lines all over the moor, and every few footsteps would send one of these clumsy black birds into a whirring, stumbling flight over the moor, accompanied by a series of panicked squawk. They have every right to be scared – shooting is still big business round here. Graceless they may be, but that’s still no reason to blast them.

The frost had given way to snow on this higher ground, hiding the many bogs, streams and frozen ponds that scatter these moors, and I was cold and a little weary upon arrival in Grinton. Like all good walkers, I headed straight for the Bridge Inn, much vaunted by my coast to coast cycling friend. Several of the punters enjoying their Sunday lunch gave me disdainful looks – they hadn’t expected this snowy, hairy and sweaty intrusion to their dinner.

Fortunately the landlord’s father – doing an emergency shift behind the bar – was more welcoming. A keen walker himself, we were soon chatting at the bar about the moors above the village, life in Swaledale, and the history of Grinton. And as the unfriendly diners drifted away, my reward for three days of braving the elements presented itself – the fireside chair. Settling back, toes stretched towards the flames, and pint at hand, I could look back on a job well done – forty miles, five different dales and several pints of Yorkshire bitter. The final effort was to move my aching limbs from the fireside chair and climb up the hill to the Lodge – the hardest part of the whole trip.

Photos by me. Nice, aren't they.

Getting there

Gargrave Station is on the Leeds-Carlisle line, easily reached from either end. Getting back from Grinton involves taking the Dalesbus from Grinton to Richmond, and onto Northallerton for the nearest train station. Richmond makes a nice stop for a pot of tea if you have to wait while changing buses.

Where to eat, drink, sleep

Lots of options in each of the Dales - the ones mentioned in this blog were all very cosy and friendly, but better to make up your own Dales' route -there are loads of great places to relax after a day's walk!

The northern end of the Nantlle Ridge

Once known as Snowdonia’s best kept secret, the Nantlle Ridge is an eye-catching line of six hills lying southwest of the Snowdon massif. These days, the narrow crests and rocky peaks attract their fair share of walkers and scramblers, but rarely suffer from the overcrowding that afflicts other parts of the National Park. If the views alone don’t take your breath away, then the sharp breezes that whip in from the Irish Sea will finish the job.

To walk the whole ridge in one attempt presents major logistical problems; the six summits are laid out in a line, meaning there is no easy way to reach all the peaks without a long track back along one of the adjacent valleys. But a day traversing the four northernmost peaks combines the best these hills have to offer; enjoyable scrambling, the finest ridge walk this side of Crib Goch and the best views of Snowdon you can find.

This circular walk takes you over the peaks of Y Garn (633m), Mynydd Drws-y-coed (695m), Trum y Ddysgl (709m) and Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd (653m), finishing with a descent through the dense conifers of the Beddgelert Forest. The route starts and finishes at the bus stop in Rhyd-Ddu, which means you to travel using the Snowdon Sherpa, the walker-friendly bus network that serves the Snowdon region so well. Leaving the car behind allows you concentrate on the stunning scenery in this part of the world, rather than the busy winding roads.

From the bus stop, head up the hairpin road behind the Cwellyn Arms pub. At the first bend in the road, take the bridleway heading out across farmland. The path starts to climb the grassy flank of Y Garn, taking no prisoners as it heads straight up the steepest line on the hill.

The summit of Y Garn offers the first great views of the day; to the north is the dramatic face of Craig y Bera on Mynydd Mawr, rising up above the Nantlle valley; looking east is Yr Aran, one of Snowdon’s most photogenic outposts. The summit of Y Garn also poses one of those enduring mysteries of the countryside – why did someone need to build a dry stone wall up here, and how long must it have taken, bearing in mind the journey to work each day? The wall that takes a near-perfect line down the rocky north-western shoulder is even more remarkable; anyone who has spent time attempting the arduous task of drystone walling will be impressed.

From the comfort of Y Garn, the scramble up to Mynydd Drws-y-coed can look a little intimidating; the drop down the right-hand side over Clogwyn Marchnad commands a healthy respect. But once you are in among the rocks, the holds are large and plentiful and the path follows an easy line. Those who prefer an edge to their scrambling can stick to the crest; for others, there are plenty of routes to the left of the cliff, a safe distance from the foreboding face yet with plenty of enjoyable routes.

Along the ridge to Trum y Ddysgl, the walk switches from a rocky scramble to a simple romp over smooth, grass-covered slopes. Before getting into your stride, look back towards the dark, mossy crags of Clogwyn Marchnad, the western face of Mynydd Drws-y-coed. You will no doubt see a few brave sheep risking life and limb to graze on seemingly unreachable outcrops – is the dining there so much better than the gentle slopes around? Maybe some sheep are just born with an adventurous spirit and enjoy a meal with a view.

Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd lies across another section of exposed ridge – the wind can take your breath away along here, as well as any stray rucksack covers and maps cases. The summit is marked by a five-foot high obelisk built to celebrate Queen Victoria’s jubilee. From here, follow the wall that runs along the southern shoulder before veering left past the rocky outcrops into Cwm Dwyfor. No clear path here, so just pick a line across open access land and head into Cwm Pennant.

The route joins a bridleway through the Beddgelert Forest, a sprawling coniferous plantation that stretches right across to the village that bears its name. The path skirts along the edge of the forest, soon passing an old disused mine shaft, now fenced off to prevent unwary hikers from missing the shaft, hidden amongst a sea of ferns and mosses.

There are reminders of Snowdonia’s industrial past all along this route, relics from a different age before the tourists started arriving in numbers. From the ridge, disused slate mines and quarries are clearly visible on many of the surrounding hillsides; at the foot of Elider Fawr, on the western flanks of Snowdon, by Llyn-y-Gader and dotted along Cwm Pennant. Are these an ugly scar on a beautiful landscape, or an important relic from past times in these valleys? Perspectives may differ, but they are an unavoidable feature of most walks in Snowdonia.

After leaving the forest, the bridleway skirts the bottoms of the hills you have just enjoyed, before dropping back into Rhyd-Ddu the way you came in. Time for a final gaze upon the distinctive skyline of these rewarding hills.

(Thanks to Laura Crow for the photos)

Getting there
Rhyd Ddu is located on route S4 on the Snowdon Sherpa bus network, which runs between Caernarfon and Porthmadog. A day ticket costs £4.00 (£2.00 for children) and allows you to hop on and off the network as many times as you like. For up-to-date timetable information, visit www.gwynedd.gov.uk/bwsgwynedd or ring traveline on 0870 608 2608.

Where to eat, drink, sleep
The Cwellyn Arms in Rhyd-Ddu has catered for walkers descending Snowdon by the Rhyd Ddu path or the Snowdon Ranger path for years, with a good selection of hot meals and pre-walk snacks available. Leaving the car at home also means you can enjoy one of the pub’s nine real ales. Near to the pub, the newly opened Snowdon Inn (01766 890321) offers affordable yet comfortable accommodation of all kinds, including Bed and Breakfast, a bunk house and a campsite.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The world’s most famous car-free walk?

New Zealanders proudly proclaim the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as “the world’s best one-day walk”. It’s a challenging 18.5 km hike across dramatic volcanic landscape in the heart of New Zealand’s North Island, where dark red craters with smoking fumaroles rise up amidst ancient lava flows that spread across the valleys. The sparkling Emerald Lakes provide the perfect lunch stop at halfway, followed by the Blue Lake and Ketetahi Hot Springs – the natural wonders along this walk get more spectacular with each step.

At times, the region seems like something from another world. It’s no surprise the mountains of Tongariro provided the setting for Mordor in the recent ‘Lord of the Rings’ film trilogy, with the textbook volcano of Ngauruhoe doubling as Mount Doom. With so much to see in one day, and the route being achievable for most walkers, the Kiwis have a strong claim to the “world’s best walk” title.

Another great feature of this walk is that it is easy to reach without a car. Many of the thousands of walkers who visit each year use the specially arranged buses that serve the start and finish of the walk. Early morning, buses drop the eager ‘trampers’ (the local name for walkers) at the Mangetepopo Valley – the start of the route. After a memorable day’s walking, the weary crowds finish at the foot of the Ketetahi Track. Sitting in a forest clearing, they can check the day’s photos as they wait for the pick-up buses.

This is how walking should be – taking time to explore stunning scenery, walking from A to B, with no need to back-track halfway around and return to the car. The linear nature of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – the famous geological features are handily spread out along the route – makes these buses essential to many visitors.

The transport system in this part of New Zealand runs so smoothly that few people even consider other options – a big achievement in a nation where many people are dependent on cars. Fourteen local bus companies collect people from nearby Turangi or Taupo – many of these are run by the backpacker hostels and guesthouses in these towns, making it an easy option for the backpackers that flock to New Zealand to go hiking. The several pick-up buses run throughout the afternoon and evening. This means there are no long waits for walkers who arrive earlier than expected and no rush to get a particular bus, allowing people to spread out along the route, going at their own pace.

It’s the same set-up for all of New Zealand's Great Walks – when you book up the route, the Department of Conservation staff will help you to arrange transport to and from the walk. For walkers, it’s a cheap, reliable and efficient system. For the park managers and local conservationists, encouraging people out of their cars helps to prevent congestion and pollution on the roads that take people to New Zealand’s wild and wondrous outdoors.

Could similar services run in the UK’s most popular walking regions? there are few services than run specifically to meet the needs of walkers – the Snowdon Sherpa being a notable exception. Many popular walks are circular by nature – the glacial valleys in the Lake District provide many famous ‘horseshoes’, such as Fairfield – and many people take the easiest or most popular route to go up and down mountains. Starting and finishing walks at the same point encourages people to go by car. But there are many, many routes in these islands that are crying out for their own, tailor-made walker’s bus service, which would reduce congestion and open up whole mountain ranges to the joys of linear walking – completing a ridge in one go rather than going round in circles. Here are a few possibilities that spring to mind:

The Brecon Beacons, South Wales
Most walkers tackle the three highest peaks – Corn Du, Cribyn, and Pen y Fan – as a circular walk from either Brecon or Storey Arms. A better day out is to complete the whole range in one go, continuing on to Fan Y Big and Waun Rydd . Buses could collect walkers from near the Talybont Reservoir and return them to the nearby towns, villages and campsites.

Aonach Eagach, Glen Coe
This fantastic ridge demands to be done in one direction; there’s no easy short cuts down. A dedicated and regular bus service for walkers could drop people off at Alt-na Reigh and collect them at the Clachaig Inn, which would also enable a linear traverse of the Three Sisters on the opposite side of the valley. This would reduce the number of cars speeding along the A82 and make the road considerably safer for everyone.

Of course, there are many pitfalls that would need to be overcome, such as cost recovery, reliability, seasonality and persuading enough people out of their cars to justify the service (a bit of stick as well as carrot would be needed). But with so many keen walkers in the UK, it’s hard to believe the potential demand is not there. More buses run specifically to meet the needs of walkers would also help to further promote the UK as an ideal walking destination, especially for tourists who visit without cars. And who knows, one of our mountain ranges could start to challenge the Tongariro Alpine Crossing for its ‘World’s Best’ title.

(Thanks to Jimmy Johnson at DOC for the photos)

A tale of two valleys: my first car-free walk

Every weekend in the summer, people swarm to the Lake District’s myriad attractions. The campsites book up months in advance, spilling over with families, barbeques and guy ropes; crossing the field to join a toilet queue becomes an SAS-style mission. Fortunately for those who prefer to watch the sun set without a Frisbee flying across it, there are endless opportunities for wild camping – pitching your tent in the wilderness, miles from anyone else.

A long weekend away was also an opportunity to think through an idea for a new walking website. Whilst a few guidebooks and walking magazines now mention how to get to a route by bus or train, the nearest car park is still what most walkers look for. I wanted to create a website where people could share walks in the UK that could be reached by public transport. A few nights alone in the quietest corners of the Lakes would be the perfect opportunity to think through ideas, work out a plan and, most importantly, think up a name.

After booking some very cheap train tickets from London to Windermere (a bargain £19 each way with The Trainline), and packing a brand new Terra Nova tent into a well-worn backpack, I head north. I time my arrival in Windermere at late afternoon, when most walkers are trudging down from the summits. This is a well-known wild camping trick; just 30 minutes later on Orrest Head (an easy 238m ascent), there is no one to disturb the views across Windermere and the golds and russets of the fells provide the perfect backdrop for people enjoying England’s largest natural lake from their rowing boats.

Heading deeper into Troutbeck Valley along the Garburn track, the trickle of evening walkers dries up completely. As dusk settles, I pitch my brand new tent on the grassy flanks of Ill Bell alone – the Lake District to myself at last. Some inquisitive sheep wander over to see what’s happening, unused to intruders disturbing their peace at this time of day. The setting sun sends soft purple shadows across the silent valley, and the scent of wild grass and bracken just overpowers the smell of damp boots.

By 7am the next morning, I’m heading north towards Stony Cove Pike. The plan is to head towards Helvellyn and wild camp near Red Tarn. Three glorious hours pass before meeting the first walker of the day. He issues a cheery “good morning”, displaying the bonhomie that flourishes between walkers in Britain’s mountains. By mid morning, the crowds are out in force, jockeying for position around the famous Fairfield horseshoe. And ever more they come; on Helvellyn, after the 200th “hello” of the day, my good spirits are in dangerously short supply – the solitude of a wild camp can’t come soon enough.

‘Closing Time’ syndrome strikes again as the sun goes down, and the fells are soon deserted apart from a few stragglers carefully descending Swirral Edge. Dark clouds are gathering, though, and neither my new tent nor tired limbs fancy a cold, soggy night on higher ground, so I head into Grisedale Valley to look for shelter. Some hope. As the winds pick up and the clouds explode, the tent starts playing games – there hadn’t been this many poles last night, surely?

But 10 minutes later, the stove is bubbling and the boots are off. I sit in the small porch to watch the storm unleash its fury on Patterdale and Ullswater. And there’s no better way to enjoy the Lake District than sheltered by canvas with a whole valley to yourself, whether it’s lit up by lightning or a sunset.

Next morning, the inclement weather means an early start (the rain started at 5am) and a head-down, hood-up quick march back over Fairfield and into Ambleside, where warm pubs and foodstuffs other than cereal bars await me. Refreshed, it’s a short stroll for the final night’s camping – this time in the relative comfort of the campsite behind Rydal Hall.

The final day presents a situation that will be familiar to many other car-free walkers. Anxious not to miss my train (pre-booked tickets are rarely changeable), I was again off early over Wansfell, taking the scenic route back to Windermere station rather than walking alongside the A591. But arriving two hours early left a slight dilemma; how welcome would I be in the Booth’s café, after three days of camping and little more than a splash in the sink as a token nod to hygiene? The scent of fresh coffee and the enticing smells of cooked breakfasts proved too strong; dropping my bag near the door, I sheepishly made my way to the counter to order. “Been out walking, love?” enquired the waitress. “You’ll be hungry, then. What would you like?” Clearly they are used to bedraggled walkers round these parts. The breakfast soon arrives, and I can stretch the weary legs and take out the notebook to write up my first car-free walk. Now, all I need is a name for this website…